2019 - Third Leg - Eire, the land of the Guinness

Ardglass to Carlingford - 24th June, 2019

     It was important to arrive at Carlingford Lough on the flood to make use of the tidal flow and also I didn't want to leave Ardglass near Low Water as there was some shallow depths around.  The 30 mile trip should take about 4 hours so if we left about half ebb tide from Ardglass we should arrive about half the flood tide.  Unfortunately, this called for an early start and we left at 07:20.

    We had some heavy swell as we left the calm of Ardglass, causing a lot of rocking and rolling.  The wind was from the North at 10 knots and the increase to 12 knots coincided with an easing of the swell.  The passage from number one Buoy at the entrance to Carlingford Lough, to berthing at Carlingford Marina took just over an hour and unfortunately because of the 'Irish Mist' this time we could only just make out the Mountains of Mourne as we passed.  A shame really as the scenery around the Lough had promised to be quite spectacular.  The passage to the marina is well buoyed as it is a shipping channel to Warrenpoint at the head of the Lough and the instructions about turning at Port Hand Buoy #18 across some shallow mud worked fine never less than 1.5m under us.  

Mountains of Mourne

     We arrived at Low Water +3 and the depth was 0.9m below the keel (2m keel) exactly 6 hours berth to berth.  Luckily the threatening thunder and lightening we saw as we made our way up the Lough never materialized except for a little drizzle as we had safely moored.

Carlingford Marina

     Carlingford Marina has actually quite a lot going for it - lovely area, about 15 minutes walk to the delightful Carlingford with a boat lift, on site Bar & Café and an Indian Restaurant which was fantastic.  The only criticism we had was the ugly state of the concrete breakwater which had been constructed utilising a section of Mulberry Harbour and two sunken, concrete hulled, old small freighters all topped off with further slabs of concrete sections - all very innovative for its time when built but I'm sure would put a lot of people off from staying.  There is also a floating concrete hulled freighter being used as the end of all the pontoon with a walkway to shore.  Shame because it has some stunning local scenery and not too expensive to stay.

Carlingford to Howth - 26th June, 2019

     I had originally planned to go to Malahide, but a few people I had talked to had put me off and said that Howth was a far better prospect, with an easier approach and better facilities - they were right as it turned out..  

     We needed to leave Carlingford Lough with the ebb to make use again of the tidal flow and also to be conscious of the shallow entrance to the marina.  We left about half falling tide and after the experience of Strangford Lough, with the ebb and South going tide converging picking up the sea, I was ready for it.  It was indeed 'lumpy', but with time I think it was mainly due to the high overnight North East winds.  The forecast was fibbing a little again and with occasional gusts of 20+ knots the sea on the Port quarter was not very nice.  The forecast was due to decrease the winds at some point during the day but for the first 20 miles of our 44 mile trip it hadn't.

     At least we were averaging over 6 knots which would reduce our total passage time, unfortunately for the second time since leaving Greenock, my 'bunny' was not at all happy.  Luckily, after about 3 hours being tossed about there were signs of the sea getting better and the wind dropping and we could clearly see the lighthouse on Rockhill Island to the West of the Skerries some 12 miles from Howth.  Wind and sea were now both calming down and by the time we got to Lambey Island the change of course really helped and it was quite a nice run in to Howth - even Julia reappeared with a smile (I think it was a smile).

Rockhill Island

     The East Cardinal buoy and the pair of Starboard hand buoys marking the hazardous rocks save us the correct course in to the harbour.  Finally berthed after just seven and a half hours to do the 44 mile passage.

Howth and Dublin

 Howth Marina Approach

 Howth Marina with 'Irelands Eye' beyond

 Captain William Bligh's Home - now a restaurant called, 'The House' - lovely lunch

The 'Hurdy Gurdy' Radio museum - Howth - in Martello Tower - a geeks paradise

 Dublin's GPO during Gay Pride Day - site of 1916 Easter uprising - now a brilliant historical record

I must be dreaming - it's ALL mine - say no more, my sort of paradise!

Howth to Dun Laoghaire - 3rd July, 2019

    Had summer finally arrived?  Or was that Roy and Mary had brought it with them?  They had arrived yesterday after a long journey from Wales.

     It was a gorgeous day just a gentle breeze from the NE of 4-8 knots and the sun was out, fairly flat calm but just a bit of swell until we cleared the Howth headland. Then a gentle sail just filling the sails. Boat speed was only around 2 knots but the tide was carrying us another 3 knots because we had left at 2 hours after High Water.  We made good time for the 9 mile trip across Dublin Bay - berth to berth just over 2 hours and gorgeous - my 'bunny' was extremely happy today!!

     Dun Laoghaire (pronounced  'Dun Leary') is huge by comparison to most of the other marinas we have been to in Ireland and boasts 4 Yacht Clubs; home of the National Yacht Club, the Royal St. George, the Royal Irish and Motor Yacht Club.  As we arrived there were at least 4 separate groups of young sailors in the Bay surrounding the Marina which did prove a little intense for the arrival with them all seemingly milling about to the entrance, but lovely to see so many young sailors have a great time.  This was similar at Howth  with all the groups of school children learning to sail.

Dun Laoghaire Harbour Marina

Marina from Royal Irish Yacht Club

Dun Laoghaire to Greystones - 6th July, 2019
     This was just a 12 mile trip South down the coast.  The only thing to watch out for was the race between the mainland and Dalkey Islands just off the coast about 4 miles on the North Western corner of Dublin Bay.  The race can reach 4 knots so you wouldn't want to go against it. The other option was to passage outside the Islands which would add a bit of mileage.  In actual fact it was no problem the time we left. The only worry were all the sailing boats out in the Bay racing, Roy counted over 70 of them as we made our way out.  The passage took us just over 2 hours in mainly sunshine all the way.  Then being a Saturday there was also a lot of small dinghy's out racing around the harbour entrance at Greystones.
     We had a lot of mixed opinions of Greystones, ranging from 'What are you going to that building site for?' to 'what a lovely harbour'.  In truth it was probably all of these.  The marina entrance although a little tricky to spot and enter was quite modern and felt really safe with the high breakwater harbour walls and nice clean facilities, but it was expensive and they did charge extra for electricity. There was limited shoreside shops and pubs close to hand but not much and the new flats being built was quite an eyesore which hopefully will be completed (there was a little speculation as to whether it would ever be finished).  What had been built and finished, that we saw, was very nice.
     The only problem that we did encounter on the trip was a loss of auto-helm which meant hand steering for about half the trip and we would need to reply on this when we did our Irish Sea crossing.  Once we were in Greystones I took off the Linear Drive unit and stripped it down to discover that the 'Pinion Sprocket' gearing had been completely worn down by the Planetary Gears.  Not fixable with what I had on board.  A local Raymarine agent told me it was now obsolete although did have a replacement but luckily it was a 24volt one as it was £1600!!  I managed to track down a replacement gearing set which I would have to have delivered in the UK when we got back. There was always the 'Hydra-vane' Wind Steering, which up to now had been a very expensive ornament - we would need to try this on the next passage to Arklow.

Greystones to Arklow - 8th July, 2019

     The overnight gentle breeze had blown away to next to nothing and so the sea was quite flat, just the occasional Irish Sea swell giving the boat a bit of movement.  A really pleasant 25 mile trip with the spray-hood down the whole way for the first time this year.  The wind steering worked better than I expected all the time we had a steady wind but took a long time to recover its course in the frequent lulls. We had the tide with us all the way down the coast and although we could barely keep the sails filled, with the engine on low revs we manged to average a bit over 5 knots, so a nice passage for once - it has been a long time coming.

My Crew - Roy fishing, Mary & Julia knitting, George doing all the work

Arklow's Marina and entrance

     Our only problem on this trip was that my engine coughed a bit leaving Greystones and then again about an hour away from Arklow - I was holding my breath it would not fail me going into for mooring up.  It didn't so the change of engine fuel filter, hopefully the cure, could wait until tomorrow after a last Irish Guinness and Fish and Chips.

The river at Arklow from the bridge

     Arklow has a very small marina in the North side of the river which can accommodate about 50 boats and very limited visitor spaces.  We telephoned on ahead and were lucky to get alongside a pontoon berth to the left hand side as we came into the very narrow entrance.  The other option I was given would have been outside in the river either on a trot buoy or alongside a long pontoon.  The outside pontoon would have been okay for us given the weather conditions but I would think in a blow it would be a different proposition.  Arklow itself was quite large with the main town over the bridge to the South of the river and just a Sailing club, an Aldi and a couple of coffee shops to the North, the rest being at one time very industrial. Quite a nice stopover all the same. which we would have to make a short one because of the forthcoming weather window.

Fish and Chip Supper

     Our next passage would be to Milford Haven from here so Wales and another change of country.  Ireland has been more than we expected.  A beautiful scenic country with lovely people.  We shall definitely try to come back for a touring holiday.

     Thank you Ireland for making us feel so welcomed.