2019 - Second Leg - Northern Ireland

Stranraer to Belfast - 10th June, 2019

     08:00 - an early start for us to make use of the tides.  We had the tide up and leaving the Loch Ryan and made really good time.  Originally our destination was Bangor, just into Belfast Lough and a 37 mile crossing of the Irish Sea.  The first half of the Irish Sea itself should be North going tide of just over a knot. Whilst the second half would change to give us a South going tide of over 2 and half knots.  I allowed myself an extra 15 degrees North of the 225 degree course line, but with a Northerly gentle breeze of 10-16 knots we were going too fast to make full use of the predicted South going tide and arrived off Belfast Lough averaging well over 5 knots and as we were going so well made a decision to carry on a further 10 miles to Belfast  We actually got an extra boost from the tide going into Belfast's Victoria Channel and Lunar Sea was purring along at over 7 knots SOG - magic.  Finally berthing at Abercorn Basin in the heart of Belfast thanks to a lot of chaotic instructions but averaging over 5.5 knots for the 47 miles - brilliant for Lunar Sea.

Approaching Belfast

     I say chaotic because there is no Harbour Master for the marina and all instructions are via the Port Control.  I did phone one person at 10 miles who said the spaces were on a 'first come, first served' basis and according to the CCTV there were 2 spaces left.  A little worrying if you get there and there wasn't any spaces left as it was a 6 miles trek back along Victoria Channel and then a further couple of miles to Carrickfergus, the nearest marina.  We could have rafted off as it turned out but we did manage to find a finger berth only to have to move because it was someone's home berth and he had just arrived.  There is simply nothing to tell you, only people around the basin.  Luckily, we found another space, which I had originally seen at a distance and thought it too small, which gave us about a metre to the boat behind.  As it was the berth was a great, shelter little spot just below the access ramp.  The Almanac gives no real clues, just to say there are ;40 berths with electric, water, WC and no fuel'.  It was only £18.10 per night, so a good price for up here relatively and there were actually a new shower block with free laundry - so we made use of that - at least Julia was in 'Laundry Heaven' except the drier was useless (not working even after it was fixed!).  We were to stay 6 nights in Belfast.

 Belfast Marina

Belfast

     The basin is only a 10 minute walk to the Titanic Museum and about 15 minutes , over the bridges to the City itself and all its life.  A great spot for any visit to Belfast,

     Belfast has been re-invented in a similar manner as Glasgow, with new buildings and entertainment on the old dockyard and much of the old Ship Building Yards (Harland & Wolff in particular), still awaiting further redevelopment, yet still retaining the old buildings that weren't flattened in the last war and, of course the old pubs, full of characters.

The Iconic Harland & Wolff Cranes and the new Titanic Museum

     Belfast was a real surprise to both Julia and I.  Neither of us had been to Northern Ireland before and were impressed and pleasantly surprised.

      So much to do and see; the Titanic Museum of course is a must - without the Titanic Disaster you wonder what would have become of Belfast.  The City Hall has a historical record within its rooms of Old Belfast with some great displays of Belfast's past and also with an insight into the 'troubles' in the early part of the last century which led to the separation of Ireland and Northern Ireland as well as the more recent 'troubles'.  The 'Hop On, Hop Off' bus is also well worth doing and also gives a sometimes chilling insight to Belfast's history - always a good way to see a City for the first time.  The 'Game of Thrones' has had such a big influence in the tourist industry here if you are into that.

Belfast to Bangor - 16th June, 2019

     Ali (Alistair Barnett) joined us yesterday and we did manage to introduce him to the local pub culture before we left.

    The 12 mile trip out of Belfast harbour and onto Bangor at the extreme SE corner of  Belfast Lough took us a little under 3 hours.  Ali had bought the sun with him and once out of the Victoria Channel, were we got a boost from the tide, we did manage to actually sail for a hour before the wind picked up to 20 knots.  We had to alter course anyway for the final run in to Bangor Marina.

    The entrance is a little difficult to make out until you sight the Red Port Hand beacon.  The Almanac talks of a shallow bar at the entrance but we never encountered it, although there are some shallow areas to the landward side of the pontoons as you make your way to the visitors berths.  Facilities were good and there is a well stocked chandlery just outside the Mariners gate.

Bangor Marina

     The forecast for the following day was strong winds on the nose and heavy showers - 2 days in Bangor was the decision.

     Ali took the opportunity to take a bus back to Belfast and visit the Titanic Museum and the tourist bus around the City.  We had a quite leisurely walk around the town dodging the rain and while did a bit of 'fixing' on the boat, Julia found her favourite - a swimming pool.

    Bangor reminds me of Margate - on a smaller scale, but a seaside town trying to re-invent itself and starting to spend money on the towns improvement.

Bangor to Portaferry - 18th June, 2019

     We had to make use of the strong tides between the mainland and the small islands (Copeland Islands) about 4 miles ahead of.  This called for an early start (07:10 actually), but we were also able to make use of the South going tidal stream down the coast.  The forecasted SW winds were way above the at 20 knot gusts, but we were able to make use of it until we had to alter course for the run in to Strangford Lough.  I had hoped that we arrived at the Lough on the flood and luckily we did (planning of course!).  The Almanac tells you about the current around the Copeland Islands and warns that 'it should not be attempted to go against it unless you can motor at 10 knots and have a good local knowledge'.  When I first read about the Strangford Lough Narrows it just said 'stream runs fast'.  I read later that at springs it could reach 7 knots - we actually had just over 6 knots, peeking at 11.4 knots SOG.  The difference in height between the up-steam and down-stream sides of the Seagen Isolated Danger mark just off Strangford was probably a metre and with the whirling water all around us it was quite impressive.  The quick right hand turn to Starboard to get just inside the Green Portaferry Marina entrance buoy was 'hairy' to say the least, but the current had calmed down once inside the pontoons.

The Swirling Fast Flowing Waters of Strangford Lough

 The threatening Dark Skies over Portaferry Marina

Portaferry Marina with Strangford in background

     The 34 mile trip had taken us exactly 6 hours berth to berth - really good for Lunar Sea and I for one was ready for a beer.  Portaferry itself is a lovely little place and the visit to 'the Smallest Pub in Ireland (spelt Lifeland on a board outside) was magic talking to the locals - apparently one Christmas someone had actually taken a horse into the bar - it must have been a small one because there was barely room for a dozen people standing at the bar.  The 'Fiddles Green' was also a good find - strongly connected to 'The Game of Thrones'.  The landlady boasts the best Guinness in Ireland - the trick being, she said, it was being poured with love.

Fiddlers Green Pub at Portaferry

     We chose to spend a second night here with Ali and took the ferry over to, the even smaller Strangford.  This was even more connected with 'Game of Thrones'  and even had the 'Dire Wolves' on show every day in the village square.  Its all become big business in this part of Northern Ireland with the filming that took place - if you like that sort of thing.

Welcome to Portaferry                                 Welcome to Strangford

      Strangford itself just has limited space on a small pontoon so mooring here is mainly tying up to a buoy in small harbour - I'm guessing that the depth may be an issue on this side of the Lough.

     Ali left us on the 20th for a bus trip back to Belfast for a plane home. A brief visit but lovely to have his company.

Portaferry Sailing Club

    After a check on the weather and timings of the ebb we decided to spend a further night in Portaferry - after all the 'Fiddlers Green' was calling me one more time - I shall blame it on the rain and wind forecasted on the nose the following day!  In actual fact we had spotted a Sailing Club just along the road and it being a Thursday we had to give them a visit for at least a Guinness.  We learnt that there would be some Irish Music going on in the evening so decided to go back to the boat for some thing to eat and return for the music and a relatively early night.  We would leave in the morning about 9 o'clock so the expected swirling water again leaving the Lough called for a clear head.

Last night at the lovely Portaferry

Portaferry to Ardglass - 21st June, 2019

      We left at dead on 09:00 and arrived in Ardglass at 10:30 - it was a 10 mile trip.  The rush of the current coming out of the Lough meeting the tidal stream from the North just outside the Lough had picked up the sea quite a bit.  From only a small distance it looked just like it was waves crashing on a reef, which I knew wasn't there.  This 'picked up' sea wasn't actually too bad once going through it although there were metre waves for about a quarter mile that we glad to put behind us.  The entrance into Ardglass looked tricky on paper with 1.3m charted depth, a narrow buoyed  channel and sharp turn to Port with rocks all around.  It wasn't as bad as that and arriving at half tide we never had less than 1.7m under us.  The marina itself has plenty of water once inside but does look a little worrying at Low Water.

Ardglass Marina at Low Water

     The marina itself is run on a voluntary basis with all the fees put back into it.  Ardglass is a small  fishing village and doesn't seem to have a lot. (that we have found)  It does, apparently, have a good Golf Course and club and a fairly good bus service which we would make use of for a trip to Downpatrick the market town of County Down.  This boasted a cathedral where St.Patrick is said to be buried as well as a good museum in the old Gaol.

Ardglass - approach and entry to the left,  fishing harbour in the background

     We needed to stay in Ardglass for 3 nights, for what else, weather of course in the wrong direction and high winds and forecasted storm. Hey Ho!  This would be our last stay in Northern Ireland as our next destination will be Carlingford on the Southern Ireland side of Carlingford Lough so perhaps tomorrow we will spending Euros?

     Northern Ireland has been a total surprise to both of us - neither of us had been before or knew what to expect.  I think it's fair to say we have been overwhelmed by the friendliness and generosity, in terms of time, that virtually everyone we have met have displayed to us.  Even in Downpatrick we were just walking along the pavement and a chap loading the boot of his car just suddenly asked us if we were 'tourists'.  It actually turned out he was born in Margate!

    We shall certainly try to make return holiday in the future and visit the parts that we didn't have time to see this time that we have heard about.  What a lovely part of the world.