Day 92/94 - Dunstaffnage to Crinan

Day 92 - Dunstaffnage

After 2 weeks at Dunstaffnage we were about ready to leave.  Because we had modified our plans we met up with Steve and Dee as originally planned and spent 4 days in a B&B at  Inverness and Glencoe and then 3 nights with them on the boat, but as they had a car we managed to see a lot more of Scotland's fantastic scenery.
Dunstaffnage marina is only about 4 miles or 10 minutes by bus from Oban and the town marina was finally opened on Sunday, mainly we think, for the West Highland Regatta Week.  When we went in  to Oban to meet Frank and Steph Martin from the train, who had come to join us on our next few legs, the new pontoons were full of Regatta boats.  Nevertheless, I am sure I made the right decision to stay in the delightful yet slightly isolated Dunstaffnage marina with its views of the Castle and Lochs.
During dinner at the 'Wide Mouthed Frog', the restaurant and bar attached to the Marina, Frank was reminded of the Wide Mouthed Frog joke, once told by Dave Allen, and gave us all an amusing recital complete with actions.

Dunstaffnage Marina from the Castle

Day 93  Dunstaffnage to Craobh Haven  (pronounced Croove)

We left the marina at 11:00 to make use of the tides for our 24 mile trip to Craobh Haven.  The Regatta boats, some of them had moored at Dunstaffnage, were starting their race around Lismore Island just North of Oban.  Frank had counted 60+ boats starting.  We were to later find out that there were 89 entrants plus 5 committee boats all had been accommodated at Craobh Haven.
The passage past Oban and the marina on Kerrera Island is full of hazards - rocks, shallows and the like, all well charted and marked. As too was the short cut between the small islands to the West of Luing Island.  The tide was charted to reach 7.5 knots at springs.  We had 3 knots under us at Neaps, but the swirling, occasionally boiling water, was relatively calm between the Islands.  What I had not given any thought to in planning though was that having left the protection of Kerrera Island, the Atlantic swell encountered in Kerrera Sound could have been a problem in strong winds.  However, once through the shallows to the Sound of Luing, we managed to gently sail under main only to the South of Luing Island and Shuma Island and on into Craobh Haven Marina.
The Marina itself is very well protected from the sea, has a well stocked chandlery and a pub, 'Lord of the Isles', with a very small shop attached which you could get items from the bar if it was closed and the bar open.
The bar was really nice - Frank and I had to sample a couple of Scottish beers and managed to buy a couple of their West Highland Regatta polo shirts which they asked us to model for their magazine.
Altogether a lovely days sailing . . . . .

Craobh Haven Marina

Day 94  Craobh Haven to Crinan

Having left the protection of the marina the fore-casted SE winds were just about right.  Although the funnelling of the winds through the mountains gave us some dramatic changes in direction and strength, we did manage to sail and pass the notorious whirlpool of Corryvrechan, between Scarba and Jura Islands, with no problems at all.  To be fair we were 3 miles away to the East from the whirlpool and never saw a thing, apart from a lot of yachts, probably regatta boats again, to the West of the whirlpool.  Our next potential hazard would be between Cragnish Point and the island to the South of it (Garbh Reisa), known as Dorus Mor it is charted at 8 knots on Springs against us.  We had put the engine on and furled the Genoa as the wind was also on the nose again.  We had about 3 knots against us, boiling seas all around yet in 50m of water - bizarre.  Then it was a short run across Loch Crinan and to the Crinan Canal entrance.  We actually had to slow down as it was the lockkeepers lunch break.
Having got in the Sea Lock and paid for a 4 day licence (the least you could buy) Frank and I decided that we could spend 2 nights in the canal instead of the planned one and thus a more leisurely trip through this beautiful canal.
Having transited the Sea Lock, then the first lock out of Crinan Basin and then about 2 miles through the lifting bridge, we moored up East of the Bellanock Bridge.  There was little there, just a shower and toilet, but, what a gorgeous view over the nature reserve.

First nights berth on the Crinan at Bellanock Bridge

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